On a small hill among the rice fields of the Punakha valley stands Chimi Lhakhang, one of the most beloved — and most unusual — temples in Bhutan.
The Divine Madman
The temple honours Lama Drukpa Kunley, a 15th–16th-century saint known as the Divine Madman. He taught through humour, song and outrageous behaviour, challenging pride and hypocrisy, and is said to have subdued a demon of the nearby pass. The temple was built in his honour by his cousin in 1499.
Blessings for couples
Couples hoping for children travel from across Bhutan and beyond to receive a blessing at Chimi Lhakhang. A monk taps visitors with a sacred wooden phallus, and many families later return to give thanks. An album of letters and photos from grateful parents is kept at the temple.
Painted houses
The Divine Madman's legacy is everywhere in Bhutan: painted phalluses on the walls of farmhouses are believed to ward off evil spirits and bring good fortune. Far from crude, they are part of everyday folk belief.
Getting there
The walk to Chimi Lhakhang takes about 20 minutes through rice fields and the village of Sopsokha — one of the loveliest short walks in western Bhutan.
Header photo: Gerd Eichmann, CC BY-SA 4.0
